Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals

Special tools and workshop equipment required

• ◆ Support bar 10-222 A
• ◆ Lifting tackle 2024 A
• ◆ Workshop crane V.A.G 1202 A
• ◆ Silicone sealant D 176 404 A2
• ◆ Hand drill with plastic brush attachment
• ◆ Protective goggles

Notes:

• ◆ The following describes removal and installation in vehicles with front-wheel drive.
• ◆ On vehicles with four-wheel drive, the engine must be removed and the dual-mass flywheel detached. Further procedure =>Page 17-20.

Removing

• ‒ Disconnect bottom left air hose from charge air cooler.
• ‒ → Pull dipstick -1- out of guide tube.
• ‒ Unclipcaps.
• ‒ Remove nuts -arrows- and detach engine cover.
• ‒ Remove insulation lying below.
• ‒ Re-insert dipstick into guide tube.

• ‒ → Remove top nut -arrow- on left engine mount.
• ‒ Unscrew bolt connection on rear engine lifting eye.

• ‒ → Position support bar 10-222 A on wing mounting flange.
• ‒ Remove eye of lifting tackle 2024 A.
• ‒ Insert pin -1- back into centre hole of lifting tackle and secure it using cotter pin.
• ‒ Engage pin of lifting tackle 2024 A at spindle of support bar 10-222 A.
• ‒ Attach lifting tackle 2024 A to lifting eyes at front and rear of engine.

• ‒ Pre-tension engine with spindle of engine support bar , do not lift.
• ‒ Drain off engine oil.

• ‒ → Unplug connector at oil level sender -arrow-.

Vehicles with automatic gearbox:

• ‒ → Slacken bolt -2- of soundproofing cover over left side drive shaft at front.
• ‒ Unhook catch -1- and detach soundproofing cover.

Note:

Observe rules for cleanliness when working on automatic gearbox:

• ‒ → Unscrew bolt -3- and disconnect ATF lines from gearbox.

Note:

Ignore -1- and -2-.

• ‒ Unbolt holder for ATF line from engine.
• ‒ Move ATF lines clear to one side.

All models:

• ‒ → Unbolt stop for torque reaction support -arrows-.

• ‒ → If fitted, unclip operating rod for vehicle levelling sender at bottom transverse link -arrow-.

• ‒ → Cut through cable ties -arrows-. Open retainer for starter cable and take out cable.

• ‒ Unbolt wiring harness bracket from left side engine mount.
• ‒ → Mark positions of bolted joints -1- and locating sleeves -2- underneath right and left engine mounts.

Note:

Different mounting holes are provided for different engine versions.

• ‒ Slacken bottom nuts -1- on right and left side engine mounts a few turns.

• ‒ → Support subframe with workshop crane V.A.G 1202 A.

• ‒ → First remove front bolts -2- and -3- from left and right subframe. Then remove bolts -1-.

Note:

The subframe should be detached and lowered only at front, otherwise it will be necessary to check wheel alignment.

• ‒ → Loosen rear bolt -2- on right gearbox mount a few turns, unscrew front bolt -1- on right gearbox mount.

• ‒ → Loosen nuts -arrow- on left gearbox mount until it is flush with end of bolt (approx. 4 turns on thread).

• ‒ → Lower subframe slowly using workshop crane V.A.G 1202 A.
• ‒ Move workshop crane V.A.G 1202 A out and pull down stabiliser.

• ‒ Screw out gearbox/sump bolts.
• ‒ → Remove M10 bolts -arrows-.
• ‒ Slacken off bolts -1... 18- in diagonal sequence.

Notes:

• ◆ → On vehicles with manual gearbox, the two rear sump bolts -1- and -2- are accessed through the cutout -arrow- in the flyhwheel -3-, by rotating the flywheel to the appropriate position.
• ◆ Press subframe down to remove sump/gearbox bolts.
• ◆ Remove any bolts which will not unscrew together with the sump.
• ◆ When installing, make sure the bolts are refitted at the same location together with the sump.

• ‒ Detach sump; if necessary, release by tapping gently with a rubber-headed hammer.
• ‒ Carefully remove remnants of sealant at cylinder block (this involves removing baffle plate).

• ‒ → Use rotating plastic brush, for example, to remove residual sealant at sump.

• ‒ Clean sealing surfaces; they must be free from oil and grease.

Installing

Install in reverse order, paying attention to the following:

Note:

Sump must be fitted within 5 minutes after applying silicone sealant.

• ‒ → Cut off nozzle of tube at front mark (ø of nozzle approx. 3 mm).
• ‒ Thickness of sealant bead: 2 ... 3 mm

Note:

Sealant bead must not be thicker than 3 mm, as otherwise excess sealant could ingress into sump and clog strainer in oil intake pipe.

• ‒ → Apply silicone sealant to clean sealing surface of sump, as illustrated. (Illustration shows position of sealant bead on cylinder block.)

Note:

Take particular care when applying sealant bead in area of rear sealing flange -arrows in Fig.-.

• ‒ Fit sump immediately and tighten bolts in stated sequence.
• ‒ → Pre-tighten bolts -1 ... 18- diagonally to 5 Nm.
• ‒ Tighten sump/gearbox bolts to 45 Nm.
• ‒ Tighten M10 bolts -arrows- to 40 Nm.
• ‒ Tighten bolts -1 ... 18- diagonally to 15 Nm.

Notes:

• ◆ Replace gaskets and sealing rings.
• ◆ → When installing sump -3- with engine removed, ensure that sump is positioned flush with intermediate plate -1- at flywheel end, i.e. sump should protrude by dimension "a" = 0.8 mm from cylinder block -2-.
• ◆ After installing sump, wait for approx. 30 minutes for sealant to dry before pouring in engine oil.

• ‒ Install subframe.

=> Running gear, Front-wheel drive and Four-wheel drive; Repair Group 40; Removing and installing subframe

• ‒ Secure ATF lines:

• ‒ Install lock carrier =>Page 13-1.
• ‒ Pour in engine oil and check oil level.
• ‒ Check ATF level.

Tightening torques