Sebring Sedan V6-2.7L VIN R (2004)
Clutch Switch: Testing and Inspection
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH PEDAL INTERLOCK SWITCH
CLUTCH PEDAL INTERLOCK SWITCH-ELECTRICAL TEST
Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch harness from instrument panel wiring harness. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the two
terminals in the connector on the switch harness. There should be no continuity between the terminals when the switch is in its normal (fully extended)
position. When the switch is depressed more than 1.25 mm (0.050), the ohmmeter should show continuity (zero ohms).
If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these ranges, the switch is defective, and must be replaced.
CLUTCH PEDAL INTERLOCK SWITCH-MECHANICAL TEST
With the park brake set and the vehicle IN NEUTRAL, turn the key to the start position. The vehicle should not crank. If the vehicle cranks, the switch
is defective (shorted out) and must be replaced. If the vehicle does not crank proceed to the next step.
WARNING: BEFORE PERFORMING THIS STEP, BE SURE THAT THE AREA IN FRONT OF THE VEHICLE IS CLEAR OF
OBSTRUCTIONS AND PEOPLE. VEHICLE MAY MOVE WHEN PERFORMING THIS TEST.
With the park brake set and the vehicle IN GEAR, turn the key to the start position and hold it there.
Slowly depress the clutch pedal and feel for any vehicle motion when the starter is energized. If there is no motion the switch is working properly.
If motion is felt, check to see if the switch is making contact when the pedal is between 25 mm (1.0 inch) and 6 mm (0.25 inch) from the floor. If this
condition is met, then the problem is either the clutch or the self-adjusting cable (See "Clutch Will Not Disengage Properly"). If this condition is not
met, then the switch mounting tab on the brake bracket is bent, and the brake bracket must be replaced.
If vehicle will not crank, even with clutch pedal pressed to the floor, refer to "Service Diagnosis Clutch Pedal Position Switch" chart.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
