Firebird V8-305 5.0L (1982)
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair
Hydraulic System Bleeding
Pressure bleeding is recommended for all hydraulic brake systems.
The bleeding operation itself is fairly well standardized. First step in all cases is cleaning the dirt from the filler cap before removing it from the master
cylinder. This should be done thoroughly.
Pressure bleeding is fastest because the master cylinder doesn't have to be refilled several times, and the job can be done by one man. To prevent air
from the pressure tank getting into the lines, do not shake the tank while air is being added to the tank or after it has been pressurized. Set the tank in the
required location, bring the air hose to the tank, and do not move it during the bleeding operation. The tank should be kept at least one-third full.
On vehicles equipped with disc brakes and master cylinders without proportioners or pressure control valves located in the master cylinder outlet port,
the brake metering valve or combination valve must be held in position using the recommended tool J-23709 or J-23770 for.
If air does get into the fluid, releasing the pressure will cause the bubbles to increase in size, rise to the top of the fluid, and escape. Pressure should
not be greater than about 35 psi.
On vehicles equipped with plastic reservoirs, do not exceed 25 psi bleeding pressure.
When bleeding without pressure, open the bleed valve three-quarters of a turn, depress the pedal a full stroke, then allow the pedal to return slowly to
its released position. Some makers suggest that after the pedal has been depressed to the end of its stroke, the bleeder valve should be closed before the
start of the return stroke. On cars with power brakes, first reduce the vacuum in the power unit to zero by pumping the brake pedal several times with the
engine off before starting to bleed the system.
Pressure bleeding, of course, eliminates the need for pedal pumping.
At one time, some car makers recommended that a clean container be used for the drained fluid, so that the fluid could be reused. All now agree that
drained fluid should be discarded. Care should be taken not to spill brake fluid, since this can damage the finish of the car.
Flushing is essential if there is water, mineral oil or other contaminants in the lines, and whenever new parts are installed in the hydraulic system. Fluid
contamination is usually indicated by swollen and deteriorated cups and other rubber parts.
Wheel cylinders on disc brakes are equipped with bleeder valves, and are bled in the same manner as wheel cylinders for drum brakes.
Bleeding is necessary on all four wheels if air has entered the system because of low fluid level, or the line or lines have been disconnected. If a line is
disconnected at any one wheel cylinder, that cylinder only need be bled. Of course, on brake reline jobs, bleeding is advisable to remove any air or
Master cylinders equipped with bleeder valves should be bled first before the wheel cylinders are bled. In all cases where a master cylinder has been
overhauled, it must be bled. Where there is no bleeder valve, this can be done by leaving the lines loose, actuating the brake pedal to expel the air and
then tightening the lines.
After overhauling a dual master cylinder used in conjunction with disc brakes, it is advisable to bleed the cylinder before installing it on the car. The
reason for this recommendation is that air may be trapped between the master cylinder pistons because there is only one residual pressure valve (check
valve) used in these units.
Wheel Bleeding Sequence
Except Beretta, Citation, Corsica, Corvette, Omega, Phoenix, Skylark, Cavalier, Celebrity, Century, Cimarron, Cutlass Ciera, Firenza, Nova,
Skyhawk, 2000 & 6000: RR-LR-RF-LF.
Beretta, Citation, Corsica, Omega, Phoenix, Skylark, Cavalier, Celebrity, Century, Cimarron, Cutlass Ciera, Firenza, Nova, Skyhawk, 2000 & 6000:
1982 Corvette: LR-(inner), LR -(outer), RR-(inner), RR-(outer), LF, RF.
1984---87 Corvette: RF, RR, LR, LF.