Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals

Removing and installing clutch (LuK version) Special tools and workshop equipment required

t  Counterhold tool -3067-

t  Centring mandrel -T10097- t  Grease for clutch plate splines -G 000 100-

Removing l  Gearbox removed → Chapter. –  Apply counter-hold tool -3067- in order to loosen bolts. To prevent the pressure plate from becoming distorted during removal (causes clutch grab when driving off), always adhere to the following procedure when unbolting the pressure plate: –  Working clockwise, loosen all six bolts consecutively in steps of 90° (1/4 turn) until the pressure plate is released. –  Take off pressure plate and clutch plate. Installing Installation is carried out in reverse sequence; note the following:   Note t  The dual-mass flywheel, pressure plate and clutch plate are matched together; components from another manufacturer must not be installed on the same vehicle. t  Always renew clutch plate and pressure plate together and select the correct parts according to engine code → Electronic parts catalogue. t  Checking position of adjuster ring on new pressure plate → Fig. t  If the clutch has burnt out, thoroughly clean the clutch housing, flywheel and parts of the engine facing the gearbox in order to reduce the smell of burnt linings. t  Clean input shaft splines and (in the case of a used clutch plate) the hub splines. Remove corrosion and apply only a very thin coating of grease -G 000 100- to the splines. Then move clutch plate backwards and forwards on input shaft until hub moves freely on shaft. It is important to remove excess grease. t  Pressure plates have an anti-corrosion coating and are greased. With the exception of the friction surface for the clutch plate, the pressure plate may not be cleaned. Otherwise the service life of the clutch will be considerably reduced. t  The friction surface of the pressure plate and the dual-mass flywheel must be cleaned (degreased) thoroughly. t  Pressure plate contact surface and clutch plate lining must make full contact with flywheel. Only then insert bolts. t  Check that dowel sleeves for centralising engine/gearbox are in the cylinder block; install if necessary. t  If the dowel sleeves are not fitted, this will lead to gear-change problems, clutch malfunction and in some cases gearbox noise (gears will make rattling noises).

Checking ends of diaphragm spring l  Wear up to half the thickness of the diaphragm spring -arrows- is permissible.

Checking spring connections and rivets –  Check spring connections -arrows A- for damage and make sure riveted joints -arrows B- are seated tightly. l  Renew pressure plate if spring connections are broken or badly bent, or if riveted joints are loose.

Checking position of adjustment mechanism (new SAC pressure plates only) l  The two edges -A- of the adjuster ring should be located between the two notches -arrows B-. l  If the adjuster ring is in a different position on a new pressure plate, the pressure plate and clutch plate must not be installed. l  The position of the adjuster ring can be outside the notches on used clutches.

Installation position of clutch plate l  The marking “Getriebeseite” (gearbox side) faces towards the gearbox

–  Use counter-hold tool -3067-. –  Fit pressure plate onto dowel pins. –  Use centring mandrel -T10097- to centralise clutch plate. To prevent the pressure plate from becoming distorted during installation (causes clutch grab when driving off), always adhere to the following procedure when installing the pressure plate: –  Screw in all 6 bolts evenly by hand until bolt heads make contact with pressure plate. –  Working clockwise, tighten all six bolts consecutively in steps of 90° (1/4 turn) until the housing makes contact with the flywheel. –  Working clockwise, tighten all 6 bolts to final torque consecutively. Tightening torque → Item –  Install gearbox → Chapter.